adidas Men's Bc0884 Track Shoe

Product Information

I'm happy to say that the NIAD VCS perform like the original Anasazi but with the improvements of the toe rubber and more closely fitting heel. They're a comfortable all-rounder that can bothedge and smear well: perfect for gritstone. The low asymmetrical profile and the rounded toe box of the NIAD put the shoe’s tip – the focal point of its power – centralized between the first and second toe. This makes for an interesting contrast, as most ‘performance’ shoes opt for a more asymmetrical shape, that places the point over the big toe. These shoes saw about 10 hours of use a week over 6 months before the toe area wore through to the rand, at which point I sent them off for a resole with the same rubber. Easy! Comfort and Fit It’s no secret that laces give you flexibility in the fit of your shoes. You have the option of having them looser for a day of playing at the gym, or tightening them up for when it’s time to get serious with those harder pitches. What’s great about the Pinks is that the lace extends far down the center of the shoe, allowing you to get a custom fit right down to your toes. The shoe did break in over a few weeks to become more pliable, but the dimensions of the shoe remained consistent. The partially lined suede microfiber upper and generously padded tongue were pleasant on my overly sensitive skin right out of the box.

After putting the NIAD VCS through its paces, I am happy to say this shoe lived up to its predecessor’s reputation and has thrown some interesting new features into the mix too. In this honest Five Ten Anasazi VCSreview, I will talk you through some of the best and worst features of this hugely popular Anasazi model. Let’s get started! Toe Box Ah yes, Five Ten’s legendary Stealth C4™. Arguably considered one of the best climbing rubbers out there, and unquestionably 5.10’s most versatile rubber. The C4 rubber offers an unbeatable grip on almost every climbable surface. It is used throughout the Anasazi lineup as well as a bunch of other Five Ten climbing and approach shoes. Five Ten has replaced the Anasazi dynasty with a three-shoe NIAD (Nose in a Day) line this spring — the Lace, VCS, and Moccasym, which reportedly retain the best parts of the original while improving shortcomings. Something I need to get off my chest before I get into the nitty gritty here: I am a La Sportiva Fanboy. There, I said it; since the mid-nineties I have owned (almost) nothing but Sportiva shoes and they have always just felt right on my foot. The following review is stinking with bias, hearsay, conjecture and malice. *ahem* Further Confession of Bias:Following their release in 1992, the Anasazis started to build their reputation as a serious-sending shoe after Jean-Baptiste Tribout put up Just Do It, the first 5.14c (8c+) in the USA. Just a few years later, a 15-year-old Chris Sharma topped out Necessary Evil, wearing the Anasazi VCS, setting a new standard for American sport climbing. Everyone loves a history lesson (you can skip this if you want to just read about how the shoe performs, which is probably what you came for). I was going to use the title 'nomenclature' but I thought it was a bit too high-brow for a review. The NIAD VCS is the new version of the Anasazi but it's undergone a name change: out with the Anasazi and in with the Nose In A Day title. The NIAD range includes a few new iterations of classic modes: a new Anasazi, Moccasym and Pink.

In truth, there have been more than one occasion on slab and vertical where the grip and edging ability of these shoes have given me the confidence to place weight on a tiny hold. These were situations I would have most likely bailed with a softer, more flexible shoe. The Pros feature the usual flat last and so they're great if you're looking for a performance shoe that isn't down-turned. On the whole they fit very similarly to the classic Anasazis, with the main differences being the tight heel and the overall stiffness of the forefoot due to the addition of toe rubber. Over the months I've being using the Pros, whilst they've given a bit to become more comfortable, there has been no significant stretching, which is not surprising due to the synthetic uppers and all that toe rubber. Materials The shape is fairly wide, yet has no problem with dead space, or uncomfortable pinching on the Achilles tendon. Because the slingshot rand is separated from the heel cup, it stretches further down the shoe before wrapping under the foot. This is a massive improvement over the original Anasazi, as well as the Anasazi Pro, both of which had significantly smaller rands that squeezed your heel to maintain a secure fit.Five Ten started producing climbing shoes in the 80s. The Five Ten ‘Stealth Rubber’ sole was one of the grippiest shoes available and climbers around the world loved it. This success helps Five Ten to grow rapidly. Five Ten also ventured into mountain biking shoes with great success. Acquisition by Adidas Over several months (pre-COVID) I have traveled all over the US with this New and Improved version of one of the most ubiquitous shoes in climbing. From granite to sandstone, limestone to basalt and a whole lotta plastic, I’ve tried to give myself every opportunity to be right, which I happen to value more than is probably healthy. Here’s my experience: Feels Like the First Time (Blatant Foreigner Reference): The strategically placed velcro straps are easy to overlook but are an essential contributor to the comfort, and performance, of the shoe. Most double-strapped velcro shoes opt for a lower first strap, often placed around the ball of your foot.